unfettered

On Tuesday, my teacher took me out on an excursion to the nearby town of Jocotenango to visit the coffee plantation and museum. I learned that Guatemala was number 7 among coffee producing countries, but by quality, is currently ranked number 3 (behind Ethiopia and Kenya, I think.) I think they attribute the richness of their coffee flavor to the volcanic soil in this area. Aside from the coffee tour, I was looking forward to visiting Jocotenango because the Lonely Planet guide had mentioned there is a place in town to get 45 minute massages for 55Q, approximately $8 USD. My teacher, Elvia happens to be from Jocotenango and knew of this place, so we both took advantage of the bargain basement prices and had massages. It was certainly not a “spa” in the sense of the word that I am accustomed to, but the massage was really good and for $8, I don’t suppose I can expect fluffy robes and an aromatherapy lounge.

I also have a new cast of housemates this week: a 17 year old girl from Seattle, a 20 year old girl from Holland, a mom from Wisconsin and her two college-age sons, and a really fascinating woman from London, Lucy who has a PhD in something like ecological conservation communications. She travels all over the world to lecture, run workshops and work with national parks and preservation areas to help them develop a relationship with their communities. Her goal is to educate the public about the value and uses of these public spaces. When I went to Tikal, my tour guide was pointing our some graffiti in the park and commented that Americans would never do something like that. He went on to say that Guatemalans don’t understand the importance of preservation and don’t respect their public spaces. I suppose they need their own version of the campaign with the crying Indian on horseback, wading through a stream of garbage. Lucy is also vegan and prepares all her own food, which can be a challenge here. She’s just a great source of all kinds of information about nutrition, travel, culture and anything else I can think to ask her.


Lucy and I are tentatively planning to take the Antigua city tour together on Saturday. I have been planning to take this city walking tour for weeks and I really don’t have much time to put it off any longer. I’m looking forward to learning about this place where I’ve been living for the past month. I really don’t know much about its history, other than what I’ve read in the Lonely Planet.


This weekend Lucy is also planning to take a chicken bus to Chichicastenango for the Sunday market, one of the best locations in Guatemala for handicrafts. I am toying with the idea of going with her, but my only hesitation is the 2-hour ride on one of those buses. Considering I’m a girl who can get motion sick from sitting too close to a movie screen, it may not be the best mode of transport for me. I may just take some Dramamine and go with her, since it’s probably the only chance I’ll get and I would like to go with her. Next weekend I am planning to go with my former roommate, Arnold to Lake Atitlan. It would make sense to combine that with a trip to market in nearby Chichicastenango, but there is so much to see at the Lake and I doubt we would have time to get to the market.

This month has gone by so quickly and I have a lot of things to cross off my list before I leave in 2 weeks. I have spent a lot of time this week trying to plan out my last 2 weeks in Central America. Here’s what the agenda looks like so far: I am going to take a 6-hour bus (luxury coach – not a chicken bus) to the town of Rio Dulce and spend one night. Rio Dulce empties into the Caribbean and a lot of people keep their boats there during hurricane season. From there I am taking a “lancha” to Livingston, which is an hour and a half away by water. Livingston is a quiet and charming seaside town with its roots in African-Caribbean culture. I am spending one night in Livingston and taking a lancha the following day to Punta Gorda, Belize (the southernmost town in Belize.) It’s supposed to be a beautiful and relaxing place to spend a couple of days, with different eco-tour activities and the beach, of course. From that point I am heading north to Placencia, Belize, to spend another relaxing, beach-y couple of days. The last part is the bit I haven’t figured out, yet. I need to get from Placencia to the Bay Islands of Honduras, where I am going to meet up with my friend Noortje and spend about 5 days diving. I know there probably isn’t a direct route from Placencia to Honduras, so I’ll have to backtrack a little bit to get there. After diving, I’ll head back to Antigua, pick up the rest of my stuff, spend one more night in town and get to the airport for my return flight to NY on Aug. 4:) By that point I will be so happy to be back in my own mosquito-free apartment, even if I’ll only have a couple of weeks before I have to vacate it for my next subletter from 8/19 –10/26. I’ll be spending a lot of that time in NC at Christina’s anyway, which is like being at home.

posted by Angie @ 9:33 PM